Chacagua, Oaxaca

A true paradise, Chacagua is one of those untouched places that I will always long to return to. The tiresome journey to this place ironically is a blessing as it keeps its purity and desolation virgin. To give you an idea of how how one might find themselves in Chacagua, I will document here the ¨camino¨ to the beautiful beach community of Chacagua.

Backpack in hand (We had left our bags in our hostal´s supervision for ten pesos a day) we lathargically walked to the center of Puerto Escondido to take our mini camioneta to the town of Rio Grande, about an hour and a half away. Mind you, Chacagua was just an image in our minds and we were only going the route that had been detailed to us by locals. We arrived in Rio Grande, a bit confused on where to go next but we were immediately hailed by a truck with a canopy over the bed, the standard means of transportation for rural communities in Southern Mexico. ¨?Van a Zipotelito?¨ asked the driver. We complied and for twenty pesos we climbed in the back of the truck playing tunes from Kyle´s ukelele. The three of us, about five chickens, and countless other materials made our way to a small community on the edge of a lake about an hour later. We waited at the dock with a few others, entertaining ourselves with a family´s pet racoon and taking pictures of this laguna that seemed to go on for days.

After about an hour and many stomach growels later, we got into the boat with the chickens, groceries, and about ten other locals. We made our way across the laguna, keeping an eye out for crocodiles, in awe of the beauty this area possessed. Shortly after, we merged our way into a small channel of water housed by branches above. We encountered a small dock where another pick up truck was waiting for our arrival. The bugs started biting, mucho. We all rode in the back of the truck for another 30 to 40 minutes before we arrived in Chacagua. And to be quite honest, I had no idea we had arrived anywhere for it was just a few palapas and sand that stretched across the road and into the unknown. We all go off and were guided by a fellow rider to his cabañas that were situated nicely on the beach. The first gaze at the beach was the most memorable. Never had I ever seen a place so beautiful, so pure, and so majestic. The experience was surreal.

We spent the first night in our buddy´s cabaña before finding out that the restaurants on the beach, which provided great seafood and breakfast alike, allowed visitors to sleep in their hammocks for free as long as you ate at their restaurant. We of course went the cheaper option even though the cabañas were only 150 pesos a night (around 12 dollars).

We spent our time in Chacagua surfing, marveling at the star show the heavens put on nightly, and hanging out with our new best friend ¨Salchicha¨ who could be argued as the happiest dog in the world. Chacagua was great, just a small community of maybe 100-200 people who enjoyed the simple life. Cuban music and happiness filled the air and I had begun to wonder, not just because of the music but also of the complexion of the people (who seemed to resemble peoples of African descent), what were the origins of these people. Were they Cuban immigrants, native people from the area who´s direct heat had affected the skin and hair of these people, or perhaps they were descendents of slaves in Mexico. Whatever the cause, it was sure an interesting and beautiful place.

Chacagua is a place that I could bring a tent and a surf board and be happy for months.